Pulling
on a waterproof cape in the Alpine town of Albertville stands a once
16+ stone man. The drizzle from the clouds dancing round the peaks
of the surrounding mountains started to become more persistent.
Having clashed the peddle of the hire bike against my knee just
outside the hotel and fallen off on the way to Pen 6 - an hors
category bump had started to swell on my leg - and the specially
purchased Muvi Atom camcorder had been smashed. The day had not
started well. It would get worse.
The
previous day had been 37 degrees - and an ill-advised trip to
acquaint myself with the hire bike ended up in a 29 mile ride and a
700 metre climb. Ouch - silly move. This could be blamed on my
making friends with two pals Dave and Jez whose ride I managed to tag
along with.
This
spirit of friendship was entirely in keeping with the whole of the
experience, an espirit de corps and an undercurrent of gallows humour
prevailed. This was an easy place to make friends among the cycling
community and swap stories of sportives and listen intently to the
veterans of past Etapes, such as Mike – a 68 year old scotsman who
had completed the infamous Tourmalet last year.
In
the evening, Albertville was not the sort of place for hungry
cyclists to find a plate of pasta, as thousands of participants
sought to stoke up the carb levels last minute. The Italian
restaurants couldnt believe their luck and profits.
Before
bed a last check over the kit – pack the pockets with gels, make up
a last minute peanut butter sandwhich for the ride, charge the Garmin
and squueze the tyres, sleep would be nervous and flitfull. I packed
my travel bag for Monday morning so that I could fall out of bed and
leave first thing.
The
Day (Hurt)
And
so back to the beginning. Looking at the cloud topped mountains in a
plastic rain cape. Gauging Leith Hill against these megaliths and
shuddering. One by one the pens were released and at around 07:30 –
so was pen number 6, our pen.
The
plan was to hit the first flattish 11 miles at pace to try and get a
bit of time on the broom wagon, whose aggressive timescales had been
a constant source of conversation over the previous days.
Then
came Madeleine. I am not the first Englishman to go to France and
fall for the charms and beauty of a French temptress. Her wonderful
shaded woodlands, her gently melting glaciers, this French seductress
had everything including cowbells. And just when you thought you had
her conquered – she would turn sulkily and throw a 10% gradient in
for a few KM – to test you – to prove yourself to her, to let her
know of your true intensions.
Then
she will tease you further – even encourage you with a downhill
section to rest the legs. Madeleine was beautiful and at the summit
the tough chase was made all worthwhile the reward being stunning
views and the chance to top up the water bottle before she gently
guided me downhill on the spectacular descent.
If
Madeleine was the belle of the ball – then the Glandon was her
watchful, plainer, aggresive chaperone. Undertaken as the sun was
rising higher, the harsh tarmac reflecting the heat. This climb was
painful, punchy and sharp of tongue and gradient. Quick with a put
down there was to be no subtle chase here, this was a war of
attrition on the legs. The scenes may have been spectacular at the
top – but the effort had been too great. Lots of climbing –
kilometer after kilometer of 10% above the tree-line in the harsh sun
The
Glandon left nothing to the imagination laying the spectacle of what
was to come crudely out in front of me, bearing witness to a train of
pain laden cyclists on the roads and ramps ahead and overhead as the
imminent torture was exhibited. The only way to tackle this was not
to look too far ahead – or up.
Ironically
– I climbed the Glandon at good pace – and put forty minutes on
the broom wagon. This came at a cost. And in the few kilometres
between the Glandon and the Croix de Fer, I was struck with cramp.
At
2000 metres in the sky, lying on the tarmac, in the sun, I was slain.
The pain was unbearable. I tried to remount the bike – but the
pain kicked again as I started to peddle. Shouting and writhing in
agony, a few gels and bars were thrown at my prone body by
sympathetic cyclists. Thirty minutes, two salt tablets, a gel and an
encouraging word from Dave who approached – and I tentatively
restarted. The damage though had been done – the fear of the
cramps returning would stay in my mind for some time – it never
did.
The
descent was not worthwhile as half way down it was rudely interrupted
by the Mollard. Like an annoying little brother at 400 metres of
climbing the only redeeming feature a bagpiper at the crest, a fuel
station, some helpful onlookers and a very tricky descent to follow.
From the crest of the Mollard onwards – people started to break.
There
then followed the longest 20 KM I have ever done. The climb to La
Toussuire may be the last climb of the day – but it was ugly. Not
even the pompom girls dancing at the foot or the thought of the end
could aneasthetise the body from the pain and the sheer hurt. All
vegetation stripped back from the road – ugly ski resort flats on
the crest of the hills, this was no Madeleine. This was an ogre.
Looking at my Garmin the gradient always seemed to read 10–12%. It
felt it too. Each pedal stroke hurting. The road along the way was
littered with broken spirits – hiding from the sun clinging to the
cliff – some sitting staring in to the distance – some walking
barefoot – others just waiting for the broom wagon.
The
last five kilometres were the hardest. In to a headwind – this
effort required the same kind of effort as the last two miles of
commute on a friday in November, or taking on Barhatch Lane at 90
miles. Uphill – and in to the headwind the legs as tortured as the
soul, eyes fixed on the town in the distance, ears listening for the
tell tale sign of the broom wagon that never came. The Flambe Rouge
was in sight but was too far. Still no broom wagon – it dawned on
me at last that I may just finish. Through the flambe rouge and up
the High Street – the sound of the end and at last – the medal.
Hurt
+1
I
have been asked two questions since returning yesterday. How does
one train for the Etape? Would I do it again ?
Firstly
- I built up a level of fitness by commuting then topped this off
with the skills learnt in sportives.
The
poor – rain drenched commuter builds up stamina and spirit.
Unlike the sportive rider - not for him the choice to return to bed
if the weather is nasty – or cold – or torrential.
Yet
- unlike the commuter - sportives teach the skills of nuitrition, of
riding in large groups, planning a ride, climbing hills, riding in
unknown territory and riding at pace. After a few sportives - as I
was trying to get Gold times – I learnt to pace my rides – pick
the fast sections – when to rest and leave enough in the tank to
complete the last – often hardest – climb of the day.
When
the flambe rouge was 5KM away – and I had nothing left, it was much
the same as tackling White Down or Barhatch Lane after 90 miles.
I
must mention the cameraderie and friendship. I have already planned
the next sportive with Dave and Jez – looking forward to climbing
up the Col de BoxHill – and this time enjoy the views without the
pressure of feeling I need a Gold time or avoid the Broom Wagon.
As
for would I do it again next year ???? Never. Never ever. Only 363
days to train and I am desperate for a shot at the Alpe d'huez, or
the famed Tourmalet ! ! ! !
Garmin details below:
Gav's Etape Du Tour - ACT I by gh74761 at Garmin Connect - Details